The Scene A high-ceilinged, two-story dining room rich with details draws business lunchers, but the joint is better cast as a leisurely pit stop for a Rat Packer and his dolled-up date. The long mahogany bar is impossible to ignore, and cocktails both classic and inventive are a strong suit. The'30s supper-club theme extends to the service, which is knowledgeable and precise; it's a joy to watch the waiter compose a steak tartare or bananas Foster tableside.
The Food Updated renditions of American supper-club fare reign here, with a few twists and the occasional dip into regional cuisine; the results are usually satisfying, if not quite transcendent. Roast quail with potato-and-olive ravioli is succulent and creative. Try the inch-thick potato pancake, delightfully crispy, with smoked salmon and creme fraiche, or the juicy and iconic club burger, draped with bacon. |